By: KYRIEELLIS@aol.com
Formatted in Word by: R. Most <yellow_fiero@rocketmail.com>
Cleaning of Firearms
The cleaning and inspection of firearms, and especially
milsurp firearms, is simple, but takes a while to describe. So
I've broken my reply down into two notes. This one deals with
degreasing, and the next will concern inspection.
We gotta clean them before we can inspect them :-)
The part in the following description of degreasing that deals withdrawing oil from the core of the stock wood is applicable to rifles that have been stored in cosmoline or over-oiled and left racked for years. It does not apply to rifles that do not have oil permeated wood.
First wipe away the globs of cosmoline on the exterior
or the rifle. I use a roll of decent grade paper towels. I do
not recommend using wood-scrapers, paint stir sticks, or any other
object to aid in the removal of the old cosmoline. Rather I recommend
removing the masses of cosmoline with paper towels and hand pressure.
This allows an inspection of the stock by both look and feel,
and prevents the scraping, scaring, or denting which can be produced
by using hard tools like wood scrapers. The thing to keep in mind
here is that the surface of the stock itself is likely to be quite
soft, due to deterioration which wood will normally undergo when
exposed to petroleum products for any length of time. If the cosmoline
has dried out (and if it's much over 20 years old it probably
has), then don't be disappointed if you cannot remove much in
the way of cosmoline in this step.
Next remove all the metal from the stock. I'll wrap
the barreled action in newspaper, and bag the small parts in a
ziplock baggie to be worked on later when the stock is "resting"
between sessions of drawing oil.
Turpentine works on reasonably fresh cosmoline, and can be used to soften even old cosmoline. Another way to soften old, hard cosmoline is with naphtha (common lighter fluid for the Zippo lighter). In any case, turp can be used to remove enough cosmoline that the surface of the wood will feel slippery, but not sticky. The remaining cosmoline can be removed with naphtha, the old formulation of Gun Scrubber (the formulation which used trichlor), or can be flushed away with boiling water. If you should elect to use boiling water, the key is to flush the stock very quickly with a LOT of very hot water -don't let the stock stand in the water or you are in for problems. And don't let the waste water go down a drain - it will plug it up as surely as death and taxes.
Another safety warning in regards cosmoline, turp, and naphtha. All of these are flammable, and the combination of any two is especially flammable. It is not unknown for rags or paper towels soaked in these to burst into flames all on their own (spontaneous combustion). Do not simply toss them in the trash! It's a good idea to put them in a metal trash can with a lid, and set that trash can outside away from any building until trash day.
When you have all the surface cosmoline removed, it's time to go after the oils which have saturated the wood itself. I'll usually break the surface of the stock by lightly going over it with 100 grit paper. Gentle is the key word here - the idea is to break up the surface, not remove wood.
I use Whiting Compound (available from Brownell's) to remove the oil, mixed with rubbing alcohol. Prepare a mixture of Whiting and alcohol which has about the consistency of pancake batter and, using a small (1") brush, apply a thin to medium coat to all the wood surfaces. The Whiting will "wick" out the oil and turn brown (this takes a few minutes for the first coat, longer for succeeding coats). When the Whiting has dried, brush it off - I use one of the finger nail brushes my wife has discarded. Remove old coats and apply new coats until satisfied. This can take anywhere from a few days to several months. If you rifles came as a solid block of cosmoline, expect months rather than days. The key to removing oil from stock wood without causing problems is to "make haste slowly". I know this is one of the hardest things to do (we all want to *shoot* the blasted things!), but this is not a process which can be rushed. I learned that through bitter experience (sigh). In any event, as you draw the oil you will likely find that the surface of the stock is turning a grayish or brownish white. Don't let this put you off. What you are seeing is a combination of Whiting down in the pores of the wood and surface wood that has become punk due to the effects of the cosmoline.
It is likely that you will reach a point were some areas of the stock are almost white, while other areas are still dirty brown (the inletting around the action, especially the area of the in letting at the tang are most common). What is happening here is that we have major problem with two faces. The major problem is that the entire stock (top to bottom and core to surface) is oil soaked. One face is that the stock is not *uniformly* soaked - the area around the inletting is more soaked than the butt stock, and the surface is more soaked than the core. At this point we need to change tactics and, rather than coating the entire stock with Whiting, concentrate on the problem areas around the inletting. We have drawn all the surface oil from the buttstock (and maybe the fore end), but the area around the inletting still has a lot of oil to be drawn. So we use the Whiting on the problem areas and leave the other areas alone. This will allow the oil that has soaked to the core of the buttstock rise to fill the areas we have drained. More importantly, it will give the buttstock time to rest and reach a new equilibrium.
When the area around the inletting has lightened appreciably (it may still not be as light as the rest of the stock), it's time to give the entire stock time to rest. I'd suggest leaving it some place where it can be warmed by the sun, and turning it once a day for about a week or so (stocks which have been packed in cosmoline for decades may require two or three weeks). This is a good time to clean up the barreled action and small parts. After the stock has rested, you can begin drawing oil again, if it appears necessary. I'd suggest no more than one coat of Whiting a day, and letting the stock rest for a week after about every three coats .It is a good idea to try loosely fitting the action back into the stock after it has rested, to check for shrinkage. Some shrinkage is to be expected, as we are withdrawing volume from the stock as we draw the oil. If the stock appears to have begun to shrink such that the wood to metal fit is becoming poor, it's time to stop drawing oil, regardless how much oil may remain in the stock.
The process of drawing oil can be speeded up a bit by warming the stock just before applying a fresh coat of Whiting. To warm the wood, leave it in full sunlight for about half an hour on each side, or under a 60 watt bulb (at least 4" from the bulb) for about 15 minutes per side. Never, place an oil soaked piece of wood in the oven, or use a heat gun! The oil will release vapors that are VERY flammable - a flash fire is a real danger.
I don't try to remove the oil quickly, or completely. If you try to rush and remove the oil as quickly as possible, the stock is likely to warp, check, crack, or shatter. The problem here is that the stock has reached an equilibrium with its oil content. Grain structures have swollen, oil pockets may have formed, and the whole stock is now accustomed to being oil soaked. When drawing oil, it's best to do so slowly so the stock can reach a new equilibrium without doing something drastic. It's a bit like getting your spouse accustomed to a new idea - you can't just spring it on them. You need to bring 'em along slowly until it's *their* idea.
Nor will I try to remove all of the oil - that can cause the stock to suddenly shrink (some shrinkage is to be expected, as we are drawing not only oil, but volume from the stock). I'll usually draw oil until the surface of the stock has turned a grayish white. some areas usually require special attention, again, most notably the tang area of the stock.
When you have drawn as much oil as you think safe, be prepared tore move (sand off) about one tenth of an inch of wood from the surface of the stock. This is likely to be necessary because the surface of the stock will have decayed and become spongy due to age, exposure, and the cosmoline. If you do find decayed wood, it must be removed before the stock can be refinished (forget the original finish - it's either gone or resting on decayed wood).
Use steam to raise any dents which have not broken the grain of the wood. If you have dents which have broken the grain or deep gouges, you can try to fill same or just decide to live with them.
Once the dents have been raised, it's time to prep the stock for refinishing...Then refinish the stock with Tung Oil and it will look "ready for issue". On to the metal...
Detail strip everything. I use turp (or lighter fluid on old, dried out cosmoline) to remove the bulk of the cosmoline. I run a rod with a patch on a jag down the bore to "punch out" the cosmoline plug in the bore.
I use boiling water to soften and flush the cosmoline from all the hard to get to places. The small parts go into a coffee can with dish washing detergent. Add boiling water and let it sit for about a half hour, then flush with more boiling water.
I pour boiling water into the action, down the bore, and through the bolt body. The key here is to get the metal as hot as the water. If you can do that, the water will just evaporate leaving dry, hot metal. If there is any cosmoline left in the nooks and crannies (like the locking lug recessed in the action), I use Gun Scrubber to flush it out.
After the metal is cool enough to touch it's time
to do the safety inspection (more on this to follow). If the rifle
passes the safety inspection, I'll clean every part with Hoppes
#9, and make sure to get oil into all the little nooks and crannies.
This is especially important because the boiling water and Gun
Scrubber has stripped all the cosmoline and oil, leaving bare
metal.
Inspection of Firearms
Inspection of used firearms, and especially milsurp firearms, is essential. Never assume an importer, distributor, dealer, or another collector has done a safety inspection - more often than not each has assumed someone else has done it :-( With that said…
Entire books have been written on the safety inspection of firearms, and each model of firearm has checks unique to that firearm. I don't propose to try and write a book here, nor would most folks have the time or inclination to read it if I tried <friendly smile>. So rather than try and describe all the things one must do to assure a firearm is safe, what I'll do is describe some of the things common to most bolt rifles that indicate a firearm is unsafe. Folks - please don't get me wrong here. Even if a firearm passes all the checks that follow *don't* assume it's safe to fire. What I'm going to describe are only *some* of the things that are common to bolt action rifles. The list is not exhaustive and does not cover firearm unique checks.
Start by being absolutely sure the firearm is unloaded.
Pull the bolt, visually inspect the chamber to be sure it is empty,
and be sure that the magazine is empty. If you cannot see the
magazine follower and see light through the bore, do not proceed.
Bore and chamber inspection
Inspect the chamber and look for rust, pitting, or debris. If rust or pitting is present in the chamber go no further - the rifle is unsafe. If debris is present in the chamber, remove it and re-inspect.
Determine what cartridge the rifle is chambered for. I know this may sound silly, but it's not unheard of for a rifle to be chambered for a cartridge other than what the seller claims. Examine the barrel for markings to determine the chambering. If none are found, take a chamber cast. Be wary of any rifle that has the action and not the barrel stamped with a chambering designation! Be wary of any rifle that has more than one chambering stamp. Never fire a rifle unless the proper ammunition is known.
Inspect the bore for constrictions, obstructions, and bulges. Many things can cause a bore constriction; bullet jackets left behind from fired rounds, rust, and dirt are just examples. A bent barrel can also act as a bore constriction - be sure the barrel is straight! Same for bore obstructions. Bullets, spider nests, dirt plugs and so on must be detected and removed. If a constriction or obstruction cannot be removed the rifle is unsafe.
Barrel bulges are generally caused by firing a round
down a constricted or obstructed bore. Visually inspect the bore
for any signs of a bulge. Run a tight, dry patch down the bore
feeling for places the effort needed to push the patch through
the bore changes. If it suddenly becomes easier to push the patch
there is likely a bulge; if it suddenly becomes harder there is
likely a constriction. Close your eyes and run a finger gently
down the outside of the barrel. It's generally possible to feel
a bulge. If a bulge is detected, consider the rifle unsafe.
Receiver inspection
Examine the receiver for cracks. Pay especial attention to the receiver ring and the area immediately around the recoil lug. If possible, have the action magnifluxed. A less reliable (and more risky) way to check for cracks involves a penetrating and volatile fluid (like naphtha). With the receiver ring completely dry, lightly douse it with naphtha, wait a few seconds, and wipe the receiver ring dry. The naphtha will usually soak into the cracks and re-emerge. A rifle that is even suspected of having a cracked receiver is unsafe.
Inspect the locking lug raceway with a finger tip or feeler. If any rust or pitting is present, or any indication of setback is detected, the rifle is unsafe. If debris is detected, remove it and re-inspect.
Inspect the action for pitting. If deep pitting is
found on the action ring or the recoil lug, consider the rifle
unsafe.
Bolt inspection
Examine the bolt face. If the bolt face is deeply pitted, or if the firing pin hole is out of round or rusted, or if firing pin protrusion is excessive the rifle is unsafe.
Examine the locking lugs for cracks or peening. If either is found the rifle is unsafe. Inspect the bearing surfaces of the locking lugs. There should be no more than light wear. If the surfaces show pitting, alteration, or more than light wear the rifle is unsafe.
Examine the bolt body generally for signs of cracks,
damage, or alteration. If any of these are found, the rifle is
unsafe.
Sear engagement
Reassemble the action (again being sure it is unloaded). Cock the action. With the manual safety in the "off" position, sharply strike the receiver bridge with the heel of your hand. If the firing pin falls the rifle is unsafe. Repeat this test, striking the rear of the action with a rubber or rawhide mallet. Again, if the firing pin falls the rifle is unsafe.
Cock the rifle and press the trigger to just short of sear disengagement. Release the pressure on the trigger and repeat the above tests. If the firing pin falls, the rifle is unsafe.
Cock the rifle and apply moderate to heavy thumb
pressure on the cocking piece. If the firing pin falls the rifle
is unsafe.
Manual safety inspection
Cock the rifle and apply the safety. Disengage the safety. If the safety will not operate, or if the safety is difficult to apply or release, or if the firing pin falls when the safety is disengaged, the rifle is unsafe.
Cock the rifle and apply the safety. Press the trigger. If the firing pin falls the rifle is unsafe. Cock the rifle and apply the safety. Press the trigger. Disengage the safety. If the firing pin falls the rifle is unsafe.
Cock the rifle and apply the safety. Repeat the procedure
under sear engagement with the safety in the on position.
Headspace inspection
Check headspace with GO, NOGO, and Field Reject headspace gauges. Do not use field expedient gauges or attempt to use fired cases to judge headspace - these methods are not reliable.
Check headspace with a GO gauge. If the rifle fails a GO gauge there may be debris in the chamber, the chamber may be improperly cut, or the rifle may not be chambered for the cartridge it is marked for. If debris is found in the chamber, remove same and re-test. A rifle that fails a GO gauge is unsafe.
If a rifle passes the GO gauge, check headspace with a NOGO gauge. A rifle that passes a GO gauge and fails a NOGO gauge should not be used with ammunition made with used cases. It should also be closely monitored for increased headspace.
If the rifle fails a NOGO gauge, check headspace with a Field Reject headspace gauge. A rifle that fails a Field Reject gauge is unsafe.
Barreled action
Check to be sure the barrel is tight in the receiver ring. If the barrel can be twisted using hand force the rifle is unsafe. Check to be sure the barreled action is not bent or warped. If the bore axis is not coaxial with the action axis consider the rifle unsafe.
OK, folks - that's a quick run down on some of the
things to be checked. This is not intended to replace the services
of a gunsmith. If you have any doubts whatsoever about a rifle,
take it to a gunsmith and get a professional opinion. As expensive
as a good 'smith can be, he is still less expensive than the ER
or the mortician :-)
Kyrie
